Tuesday, September 23, 2014

Travel Tuesday: Mom's 1953 Europe Road Trip - Into Italy

From Mom's Europe trip diary, in the "PLACES VISITED" section: 
September 23, Wednesday – Road between St. Moritz, Switzerland, and Milan, Italy
Left hotel on very foggy day.  Went though another pass and then drove across border into Italy.  After all our preparations to hide 10,000 lire notes, they didn't even ask about them.  Went to Lecco where we lunched - had spaghetti.  Then drove on to Milan where we found room to spend night.*  One of immediate things I noticed about Italy was loud horn blowing.  Also narrow streets.  People were not as prosperous as in Switzerland, understandably.

According to the "HOTELS STOPPED AT" section of the trip diary, my mother and her friends stayed at the Albergo Touring Hotel in Milan, Italy. 



At left is a map of today's route. The body of water to the left (with the city of Lecco at the bottom) is Lago di Como (Lake Como).  The photo below shows the city of Lecco and the marina on the lake.  Monte San Martino (mountain) looms over the city.  The building with the tall spire is the Basilica di San Nicolò (Cathedral of Saint Nicholas).

I'll have to ask Mom why they hid the Italian money.



This is the 47th in a series of posts transcribing entries in my mother's 1953 Europe Trip journal.


© Amanda Pape - 2014 - click here to e-mail me.
City of Lecco [25 December 2011] / ROFI44WIK (Own work) / CC-BY-SA-3.0

Monday, September 22, 2014

Mappy Monday: Mom's 1953 Europe Road Trip - Last Day in Switzerland

From Mom's Europe trip diary, in the "PLACES VISITED" section: 
September 22, Tuesday – Road between Zurich and St. Moritz, Switzerland 
After getting money straightened out, left Zurich toward the Italian border.  Drove along the Zurichsee [Lake Zurich] and the Walensee, ate lunch in Chur, and then drove over mountains and mountains until we came to the Julier Pass.  It is one of the passes to Italy that is kept open all winter -- in days gone by, both the Roman legions and Napoleon's army used this pass.  We saw beautiful snow-capped mountains, one over 7,000 feet above sea level.*  Drove on to St. Moritz to spend the night.**

* Mountain peaks taller than 7,000 feet in this area include Piz Lagrev, Piz Julier, and Piz Calderas.

** According to the "HOTELS STOPPED AT" section of the trip diary, my mother and her friends stayed at the Hotel Steffani in St. Moritz, Switzerland.

Here is a photo of the town of Chur, the oldest town in Switzerland:
Chur 2008 [26 October] / Bartosz Makara / CC BY 2.0


Joye Murphy along a mountain road in Switzerland, 22 September 1953 / Geraldine Guokas Pape / CC BY-NC-ND 4.0
Here is the map for today's travels:


This is the 46th in a series of posts transcribing entries in my mother's 1953 Europe Trip journal.

© Amanda Pape - 2014 - click here to e-mail me.

Sunday, September 21, 2014

Sentimental Sunday: Mom's 1953 Europe Road Trip - Still in Switzerland

From Mom's Europe trip diary, in the "PLACES VISITED" section: 
September 21, Monday – Road between St. Gallen and Zurich, Switzerland 
Left St. Gallen and drove along Lake Constance and the Rhine until we got to Schaffhausen where we stopped to see the Rhine Falls.  They were very pretty.  From there we drove to Zurich* where I got a letter from Fred.**  We also exchanged our money for Italian, Spanish, and Frech money, and bought some Lindt bonbons liqueurs.***  Had wine at supper for first time on trip and it went to my head.

According to the "HOTELS STOPPED AT" section of the trip diary, my mother and her friends stayed at the Central Hotel in Zurich, Switzerland.

** Fred is my dad, Frederick Henry Pape, who Mom was dating at the time.  She had written to him on August 3, 6, 12, and 13 (twice) according to the "LETTER REGISTER" section of the trip diary.

*** This is probably among the first of the famous LINDOR Truffles, introduced by this Zurich-based chocolatier in 1949.

Here are a few photographs my mother took that day.  The first, of Schaffhausen, shows the Munot, a circular 16th century fortress at the center of the town.

Munot and Schaffhausen, Switzerland, 21 September 1953 / Geraldine Guokas Pape /  CC BY-NC-ND 4.0

Rhine Falls, Switzerland, 21 September 1953 / Geraldine Guokas Pape /  CC BY-NC-ND 4.0

Here is the map for today's travels:


This is the 45th in a series of posts transcribing entries in my mother's 1953 Europe Trip journal.


© Amanda Pape - 2014 - click here to e-mail me.

Saturday, September 20, 2014

Mom's 1953 Europe Road Trip - Around St. Gallen, Switzerland

From Mom's Europe trip diary, in the "PLACES VISITED" section: 
September 20, Sunday – Area around St. Gallen, Switzerland 
Went to church - certainly hope it was Roman Catholic - couldn't see anything and service seemed a little different.  After breakfast we had hotel pack us a lunch and we drove about 90 miles in and around St. Gallen.  Went to Appenzell, Altstätten, Rorschach, Arbon, Wil, and back to St. Gallen.  Saw women in peasant dresses and hats, beautiful valleys, ate lunch along Lake Constance (raining of course), and terrific views.  Still had some lunch left over so ordered tea & cookies in our room and ate supper there.
St Gallen Kathedrale Türme [St. Gallen Cathedral Towers, 2009]
/ Christian Bickel (Own work) / CC-BY-SA-2.0-de

Mom might have attended Mass at the Abbey of St. Gall cathedral (constructed in the mid-1700s), pictured at left.  She certainly would have seen it in St. Gallen.

Lunch along Lake Constance might have been near the Badhütte, the Rorschach bathhouse, pictured below, constructed in 1924 and (today) "the only remaining structure of its kind on the Swiss side of Lake Constance."

The other two photographs, from Appenzell and Wil respectively, are of views she might have had in those areas.


Rorschach bathhouse [2 June 2014] / markus53 / CC0 Public Domain
Hauptgasse Appenzell [Appenzell Main Street, 2006] / Tobyc75 (Own work) / CC-BY-SA-3.0 or GFDL
Wil, Wolken über Altstadt [Wil, clouds over Old Town, 29 August 2004] / Manfred Morgner (Own work) / CC-BY-SA-3.0


Here is a map showing the travels for the day:





This is the 44th in a series of posts transcribing entries in my mother's 1953 Europe Trip journal.


© Amanda Pape - 2014 - click here to e-mail me.



Friday, September 19, 2014

Mom's 1953 Europe Road Trip: In and Out of Liechtenstein

From Mom's Europe trip diary, in the "PLACES VISITED" section: 
September 19, Saturday – Road between Landeck, Austria, and St. Gallen, Switzerland 
Went through Austrian-Swiss customs at Feldkirch.  From there we drove to Vaduz, Liechtenstein, where we bought stamps and ate lunch.  No trouble through customs.  We drove around Vaduz for a while and then went over to Switzerland.   Drove along Lake Constance and to St. Gallen where we intend to stay for 2 nights.*  Has rained all day long.

According to the "HOTELS STOPPED AT" section of the trip diary, my mother and her friends stayed at the Hotel Walhalla in St. Gallen, Switzerland.
Liechtenstein: Kathedrale St. Florin in Vaduz [August 2008] /
kyselak (Own work) / GFDL or CC-BY-SA-3.0-2.5-2.0-1.0
I thought it was interesting that Mom visited the tiny country of Liechtenstein.  Following are some images from the capital city of Vaduz.  The Cathedral of St. Florin dates to 1874, while parts of the Schloss Vaduz (castle) date to the 12th century, and parts of the Rote Haus (Red House) have been around since at least 1807.  


The Alte Rheinbrücke (Old Rhine Bridge) is a 135-meter covered wooden bridge, the only one remaining over the Rhine River, that links Vaduz and Sevelen, Switzerland.
It was built in 1901 on the supports of its 1870 predecessor, and was still open to auto traffic in 1953.
Liechtenstein Schloss Vaduz [1 July 2011] / St9191 (Own work) / CC-BY-SA-3.0

Vaduz - Rotehaus [31 March 2014] / Clément Bucco-Lechat (Own work) / CC-BY-SA-3.0

Alte Rheinbrücke / Presse- und Informationsamt, Vaduz / CC-BY-SA-3.0



I also thought it was interesting that Mom mentioned buying stamps in Vaduz, since they have had a Postage Stamp Museum there since 1936.

 Here is a map showing the route from Munich to St. Gallen, the travels for September 18 and 19:


This is the 43rd in a series of posts transcribing entries in my mother's 1953 Europe Trip journal.


© Amanda Pape - 2014 - click here to e-mail me.

Thursday, September 18, 2014

Those Places Thursday: Mom's 1953 Europe Road Trip - Austria

From Mom's Europe trip diary, in the "PLACES VISITED" section: 
September 18, Friday – Road between Munich, Germany and Landeck, Austria 
After breakfast went back to Henckels and bought a carving set and a spoon.*  Then crossed German border into Austria and drove to Innsbruck.  Ate lunch there and window-shopped, but didn't buy anything.  Left Innsbruck and drove through some beautiful country to Landreck where we spent night.**  The Austrian countryside (the Tyrol) is mountainous, with craggy mountains, fertile valleys, and picturesque towns. It has been different from anything I've seen on this trip.  No trouble through customs.

According to the "PURCHASES" section of the trip diary, the carving set cost 34 marks and the spoon cost 4.8 marks.

** According to the "HOTELS STOPPED AT" section of the trip diary, my mother and her friends stayed at the Gasthaus Sonne in Landeck, Austria.

Here are some photos of some "craggy mountains, fertile valleys, and picturesque towns" that my mother may have seen along her route:
Markettown Telfs, Tyrol, Austria. Mieminger Range, Alps [30 May 2010] / Elżbieta Fazel (Own work) / CC-BY-SA-3.0
Landeck in Tyrol, Austria, 25 August 2005 / Pflatsch (Pflatsch) / GFDL or CC-BY-SA-3.0
This is the 42nd in a series of posts transcribing entries in my mother's 1953 Europe Trip journal.

© Amanda Pape - 2014 - click here to e-mail me.

Wednesday, September 17, 2014

Mom's 1953 Europe Road Trip: Munich

From Mom's Europe trip diary, in the "PLACES VISITED" section: 
September 17, Thursday – Munich, Germany
After breakfast, took a bus tour of city which was quite unsatisfactory.  Met Sylvia back at hotel and went to eat at Ratskeller.  From there we went shopping & I bought cutlery and scissors for myself and Mother.*  Also bought a wood carved crucifix for myself.**  Ate supper and went to bed.  On the tour, saw badly-damaged buildings, the Führer's house, other beautiful buildings like the Glockenspiel on the Town Hall (clock with moving parts).

* According to the "PURCHASES" section of the trip diary, my mother bought two knives and miscellaneous cutlery at Henckels in Munich for a total of 94.3 marks.

** The crucifix was purchased for 25 marks at J. Chr. Dehm in Munich.

Although she doesn't mention it in her narrative, she also purchased a toy car at Teddy in Munich for 9.75 marks.

Here are some photos my mother took of some bomb-damaged buildings in Munich:
 World War II damage in Munich (a church?), 17 September 1953 / Geraldine Guokas Pape / CC BY-NC-ND 4.0

World War II damage in Munich (a factory?), 17 September 1953 / Geraldine Guokas Pape / CC BY-NC-ND 4.0

Both the Ratskeller and the Glockenspiel are part of the Neues Rathaus (New Town Hall) on the Marienplatz in Munich.  Below is a photo of the Neues Rathaus from May 1960:
Bundesarchiv, B 145 Bild-F008211-0004 / Unterberg, Rolf / CC-BY-SA-3.0-de via German Federal Archives

Below is a photo of one of the entrances to the Ratskeller, which is in the basement of the Neues Rathaus.  The Ratskellar opened August 1, 1874:
Ratskellereingang Innenhof Neues Rathaus München [Ratskeller entrance, Neues Rathous courtyard, Munich,
17 June 2007] / User:Mattes (Own work) / Public domain

And here are a couple videos of the Glockenspiel in action (both by bonifazimarco, CC BY 4.0).  The first is of the top half of the Glockenspiel, which tells a story of the marriage of the local Duke Wilhelm V to Renata of Lorraine in Munich in 1568.  The celebration includes a joust between a Bavarian knight (in blue and white) and a knight from Lorraine (in red and white) - guess who wins?

This is followed by the lower half of the Glockenspiel, which tells a second story about Schäfflerstanz (the Coopers' Dance).  The traditional story is that local coopers (barrel makers) encouraged frightened residents back out into the streets at t
he end of a devastating 1517 plague with their twirling dance, reenacted every seven years during Fasching (the festival before Lent).



This is the 41st in a series of posts transcribing entries in my mother's 1953 Europe Trip journal.


© Amanda Pape - 2014 - click here to e-mail me.

Tuesday, September 16, 2014

Travel Tuesday: Mom's 1953 Europe Road Trip - Germany


From Mom's Europe trip diary, in the "PLACES VISITED" section:
September 16, Wednesday – Road between Giessen and Munich, Germany
After breakfast went to bank and exchanged money.  Left Giessen and got back on autobahn.  Drove by Frankfurt, took a side trip to see the Rhine River, then ate lunch in Heidelburg.  Got back on highway and drove by Stuttgart, Ulm, and Dachau to Munich.  Had hotel rooms,* thank goodness.  Saw a huge convoy of American Army trucks on road, one wreck, and the Rhein-Main airfield.  Went through part of the Black Forest and also saw part of Bavaria.  The day was quite long.


* According to the "HOTELS STOPPED AT" section of the trip diary, my mother and her friends stayed at the Wolff Hotel in Munich, Germany.


This was a long day of travel!  I had to split the map to make the towns visible.  This was also the day where Mom visited some places that I visited 29 years later, on my trip to Germany in April 1982.  Thus, I'm going to use some of my photographs as illustrations in this post.


Below is the famous eastern side of the 
Römerberg (a plaza) in the Altstadt (old town) of Frankfurt.  The buildings are the Alt-Limpurg house, the Römer, which is the city hall, and the Haus Löwenstein.  These medieval buildings were heavily damaged by bombing in World War II but were rebuilt.  I wasn't sure if the reconstruction was completed by 1953 (it definitely was by 1955), but I did find a reference to the "return ... of the registry office ... in the fall of 1953" that indicates it might have looked like this by then:

Alt Limpurg, Römer, and Haus Löwenstein, Frankfurt, Germany, 5 April 1982 / Amanda Pape / CC BY-NC-ND 4.0
Heidelberg, looking towards the Neckar River, 16 April 1982 / Amanda Pape / CC BY-NC-ND 4.0
Above is a picture of Heidelberg, looking towards the Neckar River, with the Karl-Theodor-Brücke (Karl-Theodor Bridge), better known as the Alte Brücke (Old Bridge), to the right.

At left is a photo (by Amanda Pape, 16 April 1982 CC BY-NC-ND 4.0of the Brückentor (bridge towers) on the Alte Brücke. The towers (without the caps) were originally constructed in the 15th century as part of the town's walls.  The Alte Brücke was damaged in World War II, but was quickly repaired (by 1947).

Mom mentioned that she "went through part of the Black Forest."  It's likely that the route from Heidelberg to Stuttgart took her through Pforzheim, a major city at the northern end of this region.  Below is a photo of a house built in the style of a traditional Schwarzwälder (Black Forest) farmhouse. 

Traditional Schwarzwälder-style farmhouse, Black Forest,  Germany, 15 April 1982 / Amanda Pape / CC BY-NC-ND 4.0


Mom also said she "saw part of Bavaria."  Munich and Dachau are of course a part of that area, but she probably also went through Augsburg.  An interesting feature there is the Fuggerei. This is the world's oldest social housing complex still in use, founded in 1516 by Jakob Fugger the Younger (aka "Jakob Fugger the Rich").  The photo at right (by Amanda Pape, 13 April 1982 CC BY-NC-ND 4.0is of the Seiteneingang (side entrance).  Much of the Fuggerei was heavily damaged in World War II bombing, but it was quickly rebuilt.

This is the 40th in a series of posts transcribing entries in my mother's 1953 Europe Trip journal.


© Amanda Pape - 2014 - click here to e-mail me.

Monday, September 15, 2014

Mappy Monday: Mom's 1953 Europe Road Trip: The Autobahn

From Mom's Europe trip diary, in the "PLACES VISITED" section:

September 15, Tuesday – Road between Soltau and Giessen, Germany

Drove through Hanover to where we caught an autobahn.  At one time we were within 5 miles of the Russian occupation zone.  Left the British zone and entered the American zone.  It was heavenly to see Americans and realize that if we got into difficulty someone would be able to understand us.  Drove over autobahn until we left it at Giessen to spend the night. Had a gay time flirting with G.I.s on the highway.  Turned on radio in car and actually heard an American voice! Wonderful feeling.  Spent night in a hotel operated by a W. Pape.* 


I haven't posted any maps for a while, so it's time to catch up.  The map at left, from Lillehammer, Norway, to Kungsbacka, Sweden, covers the travels for September 9 and 10.

The map below, from Kungsbacka, Sweden, to Kolding, Denmark, covers September 11, 12, and 13.

The map at left here, from Kolding, Denmark, to Soltau, Germany, covers the travel on September 14.  This day was spent entirely in the post-war British Zone of Occupation.

The map at the bottom of this post, from Soltau to Giessen, Germany, covers today's (September 15) travel.  After picking up the autobahn (probably A7) at Hanover, they would have continued in the British Zone of Occupation until just before Kassel - and that's also about where they would have passed within 5 miles of the Russian (Soviet) zone - before entering the American Zone of Occupation.


* According to the "HOTELS STOPPED AT" section of the trip diary, my mother and her friends stayed at the Hotel Hindenburg in Giessen, Germany. Her comment that it was operated by a W. Pape is interesting.  She was dating my father, Fred Pape, and the time.  The operator of the Hotel Hindenburg could very well have been related.  My great-grandfather John Pape emigrated from Bödefeld, a small village which I've marked on the map.


This is the 39th in a series of posts transcribing entries in my mother's 1953 Europe Trip journal.









© Amanda Pape - 2014 - click here to e-mail me.